When you think of Scotland, the first thing that springs to mind are the Highlands, the lochs, the vast expanses of land battered by the winds, the flocks of sheep… But Scotland also has some magnificent towns and villages that are well worth a visit.
Edinburgh is Scotland’s capital and, unlike some other capitals, it is one of the few to have remained on a human scale, and is very easy to visit on foot.
It’s a fascinating city, which we were able to visit after our discovery of Whitby, that combines history, culture and spectacular scenery. It’s famous for its emblematic castle, its medieval streets, its atmosphere and its many legends!
Edinburgh’s unmissable sights
Edinburgh is full of must-sees and lesser-known places that are well worth a visit. Here’s a list of the sites you should visit, whether free or paying, and the must-sees you won’t want to miss.
Even though the city can largely be visited on foot, we recommend that you spend 4 or 5 days there to take the time to wander around and enjoy the sights.
Some places and experiences also need to be booked in advance, sometimes well in advance! Although Edinburgh is a city on a human scale, it is still a very touristy capital and, whatever the time of year, you won’t be alone!
1. Edinburgh Castle
- Location: Top of the Royal Mile
- Price: ~£20-25/adult
- Length of visit: 2 to 3 hours, according to the castle website. We spent the whole morning there!
- Tip: Arrive early to avoid the crowds and book your slot and ticket in advance, otherwise you’ll be queuing for a long, long time!
Take an audio guide! A must!
This castle dominates the city from an ancient extinct volcano and is a major site in Scottish history. It houses national treasures and offers exceptional panoramic views. What’s more, the cannon is fired there every day at 11am, except Sundays! (At the time of writing). The exhibition includes
- The Crown Jewels: Crown, sceptre and ceremonial sword of the kings of Scotland (photos and videos prohibited)
- The Stone of Destiny: used for the coronations of Scottish and English kings.
- The Great Hall: A 16th-century hall with a collection of medieval weapons.
- The underground prisons: Former cells that housed pirates and prisoners of war. Certainly the most interesting part of the castle! The tour is very well explained on the audio guide, so you can easily spend a good 2 hours there and learn a lot, particularly about the history of the Jacobites.
If you’re familiar with the Netflix series Outlander, you’ll love the tour of the castle and the history of the Jacobites. - The panoramic view: A unique vantage point overlooking Edinburgh and the North Sea.
The castle is said to be haunted by a bagpiper who disappeared into its underground passages several centuries ago.
We listened carefully but heard nothing 😉
2. The Royal Mile and Victoria Street
- Location: Between Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyrood
- Length of visit: 1 to 2 hours
This historic street runs through the medieval heart of Edinburgh and is packed with old buildings, shops, pubs and alleyways known as “closes”: underground passages that allow you to get from one street to another more quickly.
J.K. Rowling took inspiration from Victoria Street, which runs perpendicular to the Royal Mile, to create the Diagon Alley in Harry Potter (read our article on our visit to Harry Potter Studios).
For Harry Potter fans, go and eat or have a coffee at The Elephant House.
The former café burnt down a few years ago and is now in Victoria Street. Don’t forget to book if you want to eat there.
The café is extremely well known to fans, as J.K. Rowling wrote the first chapters ofHarry Potter there. In fact, in the café you can admire the table where she wrote, as well as a number of documents and photos.
You can even try a butterbeer like the one in Warner Park!
Both streets are great for shopping. You’ll find plenty of shops forHarry Potter fans, as well as Scottish wool. Beware of certain shops that sell Made in China products, as it would be a shame to buy a tartan scarf made in China! Check the labels!
3. Arthur’s Seat
- Location: Holyrood Park
- Climbing time: 2 hours, or more with children
- Difficulty: Moderate to difficult
This extinct volcano is the highest point in Edinburgh (251 m) and offers an exceptional panorama of the city and the Highlands.
In fine weather, the walk is sublime! Between the view of the city, the ancient ruins and the lochs… Take a picnic and eat at the top!
Even though it’s not an easy hike, it’s a long way up and for a long time we loved it. It’s quite incredible to have a place like this just a few minutes’ walk from the city centre! A real breath of fresh air!
4. Palace of Holyrood
- Location: End of the Royal Mile
- Price: £20
- Length of visit: 1? hours
This is the King’s official residence in Scotland, a palace rich in royal history and tragedy.
Like the castle, you’ll need to buy your tickets online and book your time slot.
Mary Stuart lived here before being executed in England. During your visit to Edinburgh Castle, you’ll also learn more about the history of Scotland and in particular Mary Stuart, a story we found fascinating!
5. The National Museum of Scotland
- Location: Chambers Street
- Length of visit: 2 to 4 hours
The museum is interactive and rich, covering Scottish history, science and culture on different floors. It’s huge and you’ll need at least half a day to visit it!
The museum’s Victorian architecture alone is worth a visit, and we were fascinated by its beauty. The collections are rich and varied, including Dolly, the cloned sheep.
Don’t forget to climb to the very top of the museum to access its panoramic terrace, where you can enjoy a magnificent view of the city free of charge.
6. Dean Village
- Location: 15 min walk from Princes Street
- Length of visit: 30 min to 1 hour
Dean Village is an old millers’ village on the banks of the river, with colourful houses and picturesque charm. The village is made up of a group of restored 19th-century working-class houses.
Like Arthur’s Seat, it’s a breath of fresh air!
Although this part of Edinburgh is well known, it remains protected from mass tourism. Located a little further away, you’ll need to take public transport to get there.
7. Greyfriars Cemetery
Location: Next to the National Museum
This Gothic cemetery is well known for its haunted tombs and its links with Harry Potter. Indeed, J.K. Rowling drew inspiration from certain tombs when writing her book. You can discover the grave of a certain Tom, for example…
But the cemetery is best known to Scots for the grave of little dog Bobby!
Legend has it that this dog watched over his master’s grave for 14 years before he too died and was buried in the cemetery. Traditionally, visitors come to the cemetery to place a stick on his grave.
It’s a touching story, but a little over-exploited for our liking: you’ll even find a souvenir shop bearing Bobby’s image right at the entrance to the cemetery!
Greyfriars Cemetery is also reputed to be haunted. Many legends surround this place. Don’t hesitate to watch our YouTube video to find out more!
For those who like to shiver, guided tours are organised at night. A guide will tell you all about the ghosts and mysteries!
8. The Real Mary King’s Close
Location: High Street (Royal Mile), beneath Edinburgh City Hall
Visit duration: approximately 1 hour
Price: ~£22
Mary King’s Close is a network of medieval alleyways and houses underneath today’s Royal Mile buildings. Once a bustling shopping street, the Close was partially buried during the construction of the City Chambers in the eighteenthᵉ century. Today, it is one of Edinburgh’s most mysterious places, blending fascinating history with haunted legends.
Visits are by prior arrangement only and are accompanied by a guide. As the tours are in English, you can reserve an audio guide in your own language when you buy your ticket.
The guide tells several ghost stories and Scottish legends. The tour may therefore frighten young children.
Edinburgh by motorhome
Contrary to what you might think, Edinburgh is easy to visit by motorhome! Here are the different options available to you:
Day parking:
Naturally, we wouldn’t recommend venturing into the old town centre with your motorhome!
Park4night has a number of daytime car parks in the surrounding area, allowing you to reach the city centre on foot or by bus.
The nearest is the Palace of Holyrood car park. This is a daytime pay car park, but it has the advantage of being a 15-minute walk from the centre. What’s more, the car park is guarded. However, it gets overcrowded quickly, so we advise you to arrive early in the morning.
Sleeping in a motorhome in Edinburgh:
We have tested two ways of staying in Edinburgh in a motorhome:
Camping
We spent one night there. It’s a huge campsite in the countryside, very far from the centre. The bus takes you to the centre in 30-40 minutes.
The campsite is very beautiful and offers ALL possible services: sanitary facilities, pub, communal kitchen, laundry with self-service washing machine and ironing board…
The price is high: expect to pay €60 per night for 4 people with a camper van.
We tried out the campsite pub, which was a real treat! It’s got a great, typically Scottish atmosphere, and the homemade local cuisine is not to be missed!
A free spot
As camping was too expensive for us, staying several nights in Edinburgh, we slept in the car park of Morrison’s supermarket, a 20-minute bus ride from the centre.
The supermarket allows motorhomes to spend the night for free, as long as they do their shopping there.
Of course, it’s only a car park, so it’s not the most pleasant place, but it has the advantage of being free and close to the centre.
👉 The choice is yours, depending on your budget!
Culinary specialities to try
Who says you can’t eat well in Scotland? As in England, Scotland is full of delicious specialities that are not to be missed! Here’s our tried and tested selection:
Haggis
Without doubt the most famous of Scottish dishes! It’s a sheep’s belly stuffed with a mixture of offal (liver, heart, lungs) minced with onion, oatmeal and spices.
On paper, we grant you, it doesn’t sound appetising… but we’re curious and we’re not afraid of anything! 😆
Obviously, we tasted it and… A-D-O-R-É! We liked it so much that we bought several haggis that we froze to take back to France!
It’s very sweet and often served with mashed potatoes. Even the kids loved it!
Scotch Pie
A small round pie made from crisp pastry and stuffed with minced meat (often mutton or beef) seasoned with spices. It looks a lot like its English cousins… A real treat!
Black pudding
A black pudding made from pork or beef blood, mixed with oatmeal and spices. It’s usually eaten for breakfast. It’s very tasty and the children approve!
Lorne Sausage
A spicy pork and beef sausage, moulded into a rectangular shape and grilled! Like the Black Pudding, it can be eaten for breakfast or as a sandwich.
The Cranachan
The typical Scottish dessert! Whipped cream mixed with honey, whisky, raspberries and toasted oats. It’s good, but not as good as English desserts like carrot cake!
As in England, Scotland is full of specialities that are sometimes surprising but really good! Be curious and try everything – you’ll be pleasantly surprised 😋
What to do around Edinburgh?
Tantallon Castle
Located about 1 hour’s drive from Edinburgh, Tantallon Castle is a ruined medieval fortress with spectacular views of the North Sea and Bass Rock Island. Built in the XIVᵉ century by William Douglas, the first Earl of Douglas, it is one of the last curtain wall castles in Scotland, a fortification consisting of a huge defensive wall set against a cliff.
The atmosphere here is particularly mystical. In fact, the ruins of the castle are said to be haunted. In 2009, a photo of a strange figure in medieval costume was taken in one of the castle’s openings, reviving rumours of ghosts.
Well, we opened our eyes wide , but we didn’t see anything…
The view over the North Sea and the island of Bass Rock is incredible! The view is 360°! What’s more, they’ve installed benches inside the ruins, facing the sea, so that everyone can take their time contemplating this magnificent landscape.
The visit is guided by a small booklet that we received in… French! And as we’re very bad at English, we were delighted!
In terms of accessibility, the castle has a free car park that’s big enough for motorhomes too.
We really enjoyed our visit and highly recommend it.
